TK-421, Why Aren’t You At Your Post?

Star Wars: Imperial Assault by Fantasy Flight Games, is awesome. The game itself is a topic for another time (yes Matt, i WILL get around to it) and the components are extremely high quality. Included in the base set are 3 squads of the Empire’s finest. The Imperial Stormtrooper. These humble little guys start out fairly naff, but with the right agenda selection can be truly scary, near limitless in number and generally your go-to guys when you want something made dead. Unfortunately, they come in a dull grey plastic..what to do…. oh yeah…. Continue reading

We’re not dead yet!

The White Eagles Blog has returned. I wouldn’t say resurrected, because we never really died off, we just sort of…drifted away and moved on to other projects. We’re kind of flighty like that. Anyway, we haven’t been idle in the intervening time….

One of my older posts was about the possibility of a “Squat army list”, something I have since written and tested and am in the process of updating to the current edition. I’ll add a link here somewhere if you’d like to give it a shot. PDF Link: Codex Squats v1.2

Currently my projects “on the table” are:

  • Finish (completely) painting my NetEpic chaos army
  • Construct (mostly from proxy models and conversions) a NetEpic Tyranid army
  • Paint my set of Star Wars Imperial Assault
  • Prepare for the annual Halloween club game
  • Update the Squatdex to current army book format

As such, a lot of the content I’ll be adding here will fall into one of those 5 project headings. Expect conversion tips, Painting projects, random ramblings and hopefully some pretty pictures…… and Hippos.

A Case Of The Squats

squat02
Back in the “good old days” there was an army of space dwarfs. They promptly got “eaten by Tyranids” and retroactively removed from all fluff, had the model moulds destroyed and now so much as mentioning them on workshop sites gets you a perma-ban. They also had a stupid name. I am referring of course to the Squats.

Continue reading

Tyranid Infestation

Scenery is a vital part of every battlefield, and as a club we have talked about making themed terrain pieces for our armies. With Tyranids this poses a few interesting challenges, what does a Bug-infested world look like?Having had a long think about it (and watched Aliens a few times) I figure i’m going to try and attempt 5 distinct pieces of scenery. These are as follows:

  1. A Spore Funnel
  2. Digestion Pool
  3. Egg Cluster
  4. Hatchery
  5. “Hived” facility

These will likely increase in complexity the further down the list I work.So, Brainstorming time!

Continue reading

Colouring In 2: In Which We Use Colour

Drybrush...

Drybrush…

So, after waiting for the undercoat to dry thoroughly it’s time to grab the Bleached Bone and a tank brush. Slightly thin down the paint and get a slappin’, cover all the areas of “flesh” not worrying about getting the bone on the carapace, your fingers, family pets or anything else. Give it a couple of thin coats rather than one thick one, and don’t worry too much about getting every last tiny bit of the model. If you can’t see it to get a brush to it, it’s probably not going to be noticed on the tabletop.

Once the bone is dry (thoroughly) find some Devlan Mud, for some reason this stuff always STINKS. really bad. It’s like Old Spice, if by spice you mean “feet”. Continue reading

Colouring In

As Gaz has pointed out, motivation to paint can often be the biggest obstacle. Well, as it turns out, writing this blog is an excellent motivator. Last week’s painting projects are all done and there’s new ‘Nids on the table already.

How to paint my ‘Nids. Stage by stage. (Just in case i forget 😛 )

So… Stage 1 – The Undercoat.

GW would lead you to believe that Chaos Black (or Skull White) spray is the only way to undercoat your models. This is in fact a lie! Personally i use any old Matt black spray i can lay my hands on. Usually car body spray from Poundland.

Really as long as you shake it properly (so it doesn’t dry too shiny) anything will do. It’s a damn sight cheaper too, and let’s face it, very little (if any) of it will be visible on the finished model.

A properly ventilated area is a must (unless you like paint-fume induced headaches…). I usually arrange the “target” models on an old box lid and then spray it from approximately a foot away, rotating the box 45 degrees between each blast. this means that you get all the fiddly bits without overly saturating the model.

Leave it to dry.

Properly!

More to follow….

(when the undercoat dries)

On the painting table this week: Trygon, 15 “Devilgaunts”.